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Old 05-19-2017, 01:15 PM   #841
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The rule I've heard for stem length is that the elbow should be laterally 3-4cm ahead of the knee at the front of the stroke, which is about where I'm at. For seat height, I also made sure my foot was level to the ground when I locked my knee at stroke bottom.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:26 PM   #842
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The rule I've heard for stem length is that the elbow should be laterally 3-4cm ahead of the knee at the front of the stroke, which is about where I'm at. For seat height, I also made sure my foot was level to the ground when I locked my knee at stroke bottom.
if it works for you, then go with it I guess. everything I saw said your knees should never *quite* lock out throughout the pedal stroke.

YMMV and all that though.
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Old 05-19-2017, 01:58 PM   #843
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They shouldn't; that's just how the seat is adjusted.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:55 PM   #844
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watching the tour of California while sitting in my hotel room really makes me miss my roadie
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You can get pills to help with that.
trying to close the deal on a slightly used road bike drivetrain that i'll use to convert my fart-around bike into a roadie/gravel grinder.

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Old 05-20-2017, 09:42 AM   #845
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Watching the TdF in the Armstrong era is what got me into riding again.

I haven't ridden the roadie much in the last decade.

I'm trying to decide whether to keep it or move on.
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Old 05-23-2017, 09:59 AM   #846
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My dad gave me his old 1977 Super Course last night. It's in rough shape and needs a paint job but all the components are there. It's one frame size two big for me (23.5" vs 21.5") so I might try to do a 650b conversion on it and see if that will bring down the standover height enough.
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Old 05-24-2017, 10:41 AM   #847
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I've got it stripped except for the right crank, bottom bracket, seat post, and stem. Tools are in the mail for the former two, but the latter two are really stuck -- aluminum oxidized into a steel frame from 30 years in a damp garage. I may not be able to get them out, but I have yet to apply the combined magic of chemistry and a BFH.

The chain, chain rings, and front derailer are totally shot. The rear derailer needs to be rebuilt. My dad has an extra set of dura ace components lying around but it seems kind of silly to put them on this bike, so unless I fix the original parts I may fit it with an internally geared hub.

Assuming I get the post and stem out, my plan is to get new brake mounts brazed onto the frame, fit it with either 26" or 650c wheels (I may have to build them myself), touch up the paint or have it powder coated, restore the decals, and clear coat it.

If I can't remove the post and stem without a hacksaw or a machine shop, I'm not sure it will be worth it to salvage the frame. I could try to find a super course frame in the right size and rebuild it with original components. As long as I'm doing stupid bike things, I guess I could have a frame builder chop and resize this frame.

Dumb and impractical, but it'll be a fun frankenbike.

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Old 05-27-2017, 12:28 AM   #848
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This stem is permanently attached to the frame.



I soaked the steer tube with ammonia for 24 hours and wailed on that 4 foot pipe as hard as I could. All I did was bend the top of the stem.
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Old 05-27-2017, 05:34 PM   #849
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This stem is permanently attached to the frame.



I soaked the steer tube with ammonia for 24 hours and wailed on that 4 foot pipe as hard as I could. All I did was bend the top of the stem.
Fire wrench?
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:07 PM   #850
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Not sure I follow.
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:39 PM   #851
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Old 05-27-2017, 06:40 PM   #852
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:11 PM   #853
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Old 05-27-2017, 07:14 PM   #854
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Old 05-27-2017, 08:06 PM   #855
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Not sure I follow.
Heat the steerer tube/stem area with a torch until its hot then try to work the stem loose.
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Old 05-27-2017, 11:07 PM   #856
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Aluminum expands faster than steel! I suspect that would only make it more stuck - maybe if I sprayed liquid nitrogen inside...?
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Old 05-27-2017, 11:18 PM   #857
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From the source of all arcane bike wisdom:

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-stem.html
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:49 AM   #858
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maybe if I sprayed liquid nitrogen inside...?
Is it a T-1000? Because otherwise...
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Old 06-13-2017, 07:41 AM   #859
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so I'm in the process of putting a road bike back together using what I have for parts and what I can acquire used on the semi-cheap. I just picked up a whole drivetrain, but am considering running a mountain bike rear derailleur (with my road bike shifter/brake levers) so that I can run a much larger cassette back there. anybody know, for sure, if shimano Ultegra 9-speed brifters will work with a Shimano XT rear mech?
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:21 PM   #860
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Aluminum expands faster than steel! I suspect that would only make it more stuck - maybe if I sprayed liquid nitrogen inside...?
I ended up hacksawing the top of the stem off to remove the fork. As for the seat post, I filled the frame with ammonia and let it soak for 5 days. I clamped the post in a bench vise and yanked hard on the head tube - nothing. I put a 12" pipe wrench on there and bashed it with a hammer - still nothing.

Next options are

1. bore out fork and seat tube
2. melt the aluminum out with fire - I don't know much about metallurgy, maybe this would screw up the integrity of the steel somehow
3. melt the aluminum out with sodium hydroxide - yuck
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:31 PM   #861
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You aren't supposed to melt the parts with the torch, just heat them up so that the expansion/contraction breaks the bond formed by the corrosion. I mean, maybe someone does that in bikeworld but at least with my experience using torches in auto repair you're never trying to make anything molten except maybe rubber bushings.

If you get it hot enough to melt the aluminum you're almost certainly going to compromise the heat treatment used to strengthen the frame.
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Old 06-13-2017, 01:38 PM   #862
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You aren't supposed to melt the parts with the torch, just heat them up so that the expansion/contraction breaks the bond formed by the corrosion. I mean, maybe someone does that in bikeworld but at least with my experience using torches in auto repair you're never trying to make anything molten except maybe rubber bushings.

If you get it hot enough to melt the aluminum you're almost certainly going to compromise the heat treatment used to strengthen the frame.
Well yeah, of course, one wouldn't normally literally melt parts. But, these are the most stuck parts I've ever encountered in years of working on cars and bikes and they're already destroyed, so
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:02 PM   #863
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so I'm in the process of putting a road bike back together using what I have for parts and what I can acquire used on the semi-cheap. I just picked up a whole drivetrain, but am considering running a mountain bike rear derailleur (with my road bike shifter/brake levers) so that I can run a much larger cassette back there. anybody know, for sure, if shimano Ultegra 9-speed brifters will work with a Shimano XT rear mech?
I don't know the answer to this but you also need to make sure the chanrings and cassette are compatible. I wouldn't assume they are.
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:07 PM   #864
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Well yeah, of course, one wouldn't normally literally melt parts. But, these are the most stuck parts I've ever encountered in years of working on cars and bikes and they're already destroyed, so
The frame is steel and the seatpost is aluminum, right? I don't think heating it would help from an expansion/contraction point of view but it might shift whatever is holding them together. You probably could have gotten the stem off that way because the fork steer tube is steel. Am I right in believing the fork is still stuck?
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:47 PM   #865
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I don't know the answer to this but you also need to make sure the chanrings and cassette are compatible. I wouldn't assume they are.
further research and inquiry on various sources of questionable validity says that up to and including 9 speed drivetrains, shimano was fully compatible. they didn't start their cable pull ratio fuckery until 10 speed.
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:49 PM   #866
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The frame is steel and the seatpost is aluminum, right? I don't think heating it would help from an expansion/contraction point of view but it might shift whatever is holding them together. You probably could have gotten the stem off that way because the fork steer tube is steel. Am I right in believing the fork is still stuck?
Fork is out, stem is still stuck in the steer tube.

The parts are held in by aluminum oxide, which is larger in volume than aluminum and, I think, bonds with steel? Aluminum expands faster than steel, so heating the parts will only make the aluminum more stuck.

I've done some research, though, and the main tubes are not heat treated and explicitly retain their structure to brass brazing temperatures (i.e., around 1600F). The rest of the tubes are 20-30 high carbon steel and also brazed. Based on that, I suspect reheating to 1250F would not cause any problems.
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:52 PM   #867
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Fork is out, stem is still stuck in the steer tube.
can you get a hacksaw blade down the top of the steer tube? what about just slicing through one side of what's left of the stem and prying/folding it out with a screwdriver or something?
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Old 06-13-2017, 02:58 PM   #868
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can you get a hacksaw blade down the top of the steer tube? what about just slicing through one side of what's left of the stem and prying/folding it out with a screwdriver or something?
The hole in the stem is smaller in diameter than the width of a standard hacksaw blade, but yes, that is also an option.
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:02 PM   #869
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The hole in the stem is smaller in diameter than the width of a standard hacksaw blade, but yes, that is also an option.
chisel that's just narrow enough to not gouge the fork, but will cut the stem?
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Old 06-13-2017, 03:33 PM   #870
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Chucking the whole thing because the time you're spending on it is more valuable than just purchasing new parts (or different used parts)?
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