URB help? Strings, setup, etc.

[Thump]

Off for a semi-lucrative mini-tour this week and coincidentally the
local shop has got in a cheapie Chinese made double bass. Normally the
ones I've seen have a horrendous action on 'em and sound so-so.

This one appears to be a faulty job 'coz they've messed up and
accidentally given It a good action at the nut; it also has a fairly
pleasant tone (considering the price) and a strong sounding E string
compared to most others I've heard.

I've been jonesing for a URB for years but have been wary due to old
wrist and arm injuries making it a distinct possibility that I won't
be able to play it for any length of time. However I'll get such a
good price on this (a buddy manages the store) that I'm gonna take a
chance.

My questions are:

The action at the bridge is still a bit high so I'm considering
cutting it down. I'm assuming that provided I get the profile (radius
and string notches) the same there aren't any major issues or things
to watch out for when doing this myself?

Are there low tension strings, apart from gut, available?

I don't intend to be playing any arco at the moment so I can't see any
problem with having the low action.

Thump

[Clive - Selectron]

Fitting/adjusting a stock DB bridge is a cow.
Been there, done that.
The best advice I can give is to invest
in an adjustable bridge...you can play around with
the action as much as you like without woodwork
and you can't get it wrong and bugger up the bridge.
That assumes the bridge/fingerboard profiles match.
It's easier to adjust the profile...if you have to...than
cut the bridge down *and* change the profile.
Believe me it's very easy to get wrong.
Get the swivel feet with screw height adjusters type bridge.
If you've never fitted a DB bridge best Google for
advice on keeping/re-fitting the sound post in the
correct position...most important.
As for strings some suit some basses better than others
and it also depends on the tone you want but they are
very expensive so choose with care.
I use and recommend Thomastik Weichs which are
a low tension metal string with a great jazz tone
and very popular with jazz bassists...very fast
under the fingers!
I'm sure others will have different views on strings.
Good luck.
--
Clive P Norris
Managing Director
Selectron (UK) Ltd
Musical Equipment Distribution.
www.skullstrings.com
www.espguitars.co.uk
www.emgpickups.co.uk
www.tube-shop.com
www.coreoneproduct.com
www.whirlwindusa.com
www.espshop.co.uk

"Thump" <mal.skinner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1179210114.167451.208590@q75g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
> Off for a semi-lucrative mini-tour this week and coincidentally the
> local shop has got in a cheapie Chinese made double bass. Normally the
> ones I've seen have a horrendous action on 'em and sound so-so.
>
> This one appears to be a faulty job 'coz they've messed up and
> accidentally given It a good action at the nut; it also has a fairly
> pleasant tone (considering the price) and a strong sounding E string
> compared to most others I've heard.
>
> I've been jonesing for a URB for years but have been wary due to old
> wrist and arm injuries making it a distinct possibility that I won't
> be able to play it for any length of time. However I'll get such a
> good price on this (a buddy manages the store) that I'm gonna take a
> chance.
>
> My questions are:
>
> The action at the bridge is still a bit high so I'm considering
> cutting it down. I'm assuming that provided I get the profile (radius
> and string notches) the same there aren't any major issues or things
> to watch out for when doing this myself?
>
> Are there low tension strings, apart from gut, available?
>
> I don't intend to be playing any arco at the moment so I can't see any
> problem with having the low action.
>
> Thump
>

[Danko]

"Thump" <mal.skinner@gmail.com> wrote in message

1st and foremost @chinese dillema. I'm facing it too. Infact, the BEST bass
I've tried in last 2 years is a chinese plywood, brand new in my local music
store. All new and red and shiney (yuck), but the best bass I've tried so
far. And I've tried around 20 basses <$2500.

The tone is even througout the fingerboard, sounding very nice, very
playable. The only thing that stopped me from buying is the "Cremona" label.
And most of the reviewers on the Internet claim that the bass will fall
apart sooner or later. Maybe not within first two years, but then
boom-crack-crap. You always think that the one YOU are buying would be
better. I'm not betting on that though.

> My questions are:
>
> The action at the bridge is still a bit high so I'm considering
> cutting it down. I'm assuming that provided I get the profile (radius
> and string notches) the same there aren't any major issues or things
> to watch out for when doing this myself?

I've done it myself. Don't cut. Rough sandpaper is your friend, use it. Even
going 10 times to bass and back to sanding is not too bad if you get good
result at the end. Don't make string-notches at all first few times. Strings
will make the notches themselves as you tighten them. Have someone to hold
them down on the bridge as you tighten. Only when you are a tick on the high
side, then take a small phile, and notch the bridge. The small notches that
strings made themselves will guide your phile. A little goes a long way.

> Are there low tension strings, apart from gut, available?

Pirastro flexocor. Obligato are also on the softer side. Depends on the bass
which ones would be better.

> I don't intend to be playing any arco at the moment so I can't see any
> problem with having the low action.

The pizz tone will suffer. Don't go too low. Better be on the high side, and
do the sanding after a few months when you really know what you want. It's
easier to lower the action than to raise it.

Trust me, I've tried some basses with low action, and they all sounded thin,
quiet and poor.

Danko

[Derek Tearne]

Thump <mal.skinner@gmail.com> wrote:
> My questions are:
>
> The action at the bridge is still a bit high so I'm considering
> cutting it down. I'm assuming that provided I get the profile (radius
> and string notches) the same there aren't any major issues or things
> to watch out for when doing this myself?

Obviously, if you go too far, or change your mind later, you can't go
back. Unless you already know the kind of action you want it's a bit of
a risk. You definitely want to wait until after getting new strings.

You should consider getting an adjustable bridge, or inserts to convert
your current bridge. You can get these from http://www.gollihur.com/

> Are there low tension strings, apart from gut, available?

Yes, there are various 'hybrid' or 'synthetic gut' strings available
from many manufacturers. There's a good range at
http://www.lemurmusic.com/

--- Derek

--
Derek Tearne - derek@url.co.nz
Many Hands - Trans Cultural Music from Aotearoa/New Zealand
http://www.manyhands.co.nz/

[Kloka-mo']

Yea, I would try to insert adjusters into your current bridge, but first I
would keep a tracing of the current bridge for reference. This way, you
don't have to re-do the profile/radius. You just cut out a middle section
of each leg. Not all bridges have the correct style "legs" for this mod.

--
-rob Bartlett, TN
O>
/(\)
^^
"Derek Tearne" <derek@url.co.nz> wrote in message
news:1hy662o.giuc4q17w2d81N%derek@url.co.nz...
> Thump <mal.skinner@gmail.com> wrote:
>> My questions are:
>>
>> The action at the bridge is still a bit high so I'm considering
>> cutting it down. I'm assuming that provided I get the profile (radius
>> and string notches) the same there aren't any major issues or things
>> to watch out for when doing this myself?
>
> Obviously, if you go too far, or change your mind later, you can't go
> back. Unless you already know the kind of action you want it's a bit of
> a risk. You definitely want to wait until after getting new strings.
>
> You should consider getting an adjustable bridge, or inserts to convert
> your current bridge. You can get these from http://www.gollihur.com/
>
>> Are there low tension strings, apart from gut, available?
>
> Yes, there are various 'hybrid' or 'synthetic gut' strings available
> from many manufacturers. There's a good range at
> http://www.lemurmusic.com/
>
> --- Derek
>
> --
> Derek Tearne - derek@url.co.nz
> Many Hands - Trans Cultural Music from Aotearoa/New Zealand
> http://www.manyhands.co.nz/
>

"Thump" <mal.skinner@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1179210114.167451.208590@q75g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
> Off for a semi-lucrative mini-tour this week and coincidentally the
> local shop has got in a cheapie Chinese made double bass. Normally the
> ones I've seen have a horrendous action on 'em and sound so-so.
>
> This one appears to be a faulty job 'coz they've messed up and
> accidentally given It a good action at the nut; it also has a fairly
> pleasant tone (considering the price) and a strong sounding E string
> compared to most others I've heard.

I'd echo going for the adjustable bridge. FWIW, my local luthier says avoid
brass adjuster wheels as they add too much mass to the bridge. I'm using
Pirastro Obligatos on my el-cheapo Englehardt and they're reasonably low
tension, soft on my tender little fingers, and sound pretty good both pizz
and arco.

Gotta go - my teacher's here for my lesson (Yeah he comes to my house -
quite the luxury!)

[timbo]

On 2007-05-16, <Philbert> <Philbert> wrote:
>
> "Thump" <mal.skinner@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1179210114.167451.208590@q75g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
>> Off for a semi-lucrative mini-tour this week and coincidentally the
>> local shop has got in a cheapie Chinese made double bass. Normally the
>> ones I've seen have a horrendous action on 'em and sound so-so.
>>
>> This one appears to be a faulty job 'coz they've messed up and
>> accidentally given It a good action at the nut; it also has a fairly
>> pleasant tone (considering the price) and a strong sounding E string
>> compared to most others I've heard.
>
> I'd echo going for the adjustable bridge. FWIW, my local luthier says avoid
> brass adjuster wheels as they add too much mass to the bridge. I'm using

interesting. what other sort of adjusters are available?

ok, a quick google tells me there are brass, aluminium, plastic & even
wooden adjusters available, and there's even this article:

<http://iwk.mdw.ac.at/Forschung/english/dbb/dbb.htm> that goes into some
depth about the tonal differences between the adjusters.

i got that from here btw:

<http://www.liutaiomottola.com/construction/BassWheels.htm>

however, my bridge has brass adjusters installed (truly a great idea,
although these days i never adjust it, but when i was learning it helped me
alot), & i never noticed any differnce in tone from before they were
installed..

then again, since i'm mostly playing amplified up to 11 competing with a
gretsch & drums, i'm probably not in the best position to say anything about
the tone...

> Pirastro Obligatos on my el-cheapo Englehardt and they're reasonably low
> tension, soft on my tender little fingers, and sound pretty good both pizz
> and arco.

the eurosonic light & ultralight sets are super-low tension, & seem pretty
easy on the fingers. i've only played them for about an hour or so though,
so ymmv.

<http://www.urbbob.com/strings.html#eurosonic>

> Gotta go - my teacher's here for my lesson (Yeah he comes to my house -
> quite the luxury!)

not bad! saves you having to cart all your gear around to his place ;)

cheers,

timbo.

--

http://www.skyrockats.com