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View Full Version : rewiring a pickup from series to parallel?


mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 03:58 PM
ok, both of the barts in the JAF are currently wired series, separately. one pup to one knob. i want to make the bridge pickup parallel instead of series. i'm ok with it being that way all of the time, i'll control overall tone and growl with the individual volumes.

i remember soldering 2 wires together when i wired the bass. do i need to somehow separate them, or is there something else that needs doing?

i know, you need diagrams of what's already existing to know for sure. i'll try to find it soon and post it as well.


please and thanks.

or something...

bassmanatlarge
03-16-2007, 04:10 PM
I don't know anything about the pups you're using.

I guess it's too late to tell you to never throw out the wiring diagram.:rofl:

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 04:13 PM
I don't know anything about the pups you're using.

I guess it's too late to tell you to never throw out the wiring diagram.:rofl:

i've still got it somewhere. just can't remember where...


:(

bassmanatlarge
03-16-2007, 04:24 PM
seriously tho...

there are likely 4 wires...2 for each pole

to wire parallel, 1 from each pole would go to ground and the other to the pot...it's called parallel because they are wired side by side

in series thsy are wired ground, pole,pole, pot.

I can't tell you anything about polarity

bassmanatlarge
03-16-2007, 04:25 PM
i've still got it somewhere. just can't remember where...


:(
is it in the case? gig bag? sock drawer?

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 04:26 PM
is it in the case? gig bag? sock drawer?

:shrug:

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 04:27 PM
seriously tho...

there are likely 4 wires...2 for each pole

to wire parallel, 1 from each pole would go to ground and the other to the pot...it's called parallel because they are wired side by side

in series thsy are wired ground, pole,pole, pot.

I can't tell you anything about polarity

that makes about zero sense to me. :( i'll draw the schematic and post it next week...

bassmanatlarge
03-16-2007, 04:35 PM
that makes about zero sense to me. :( i'll draw the schematic and post it next week...

unsolder the 2 wires you soldered together and solder one each to where the other 2 wires go
If it doesn't work, reverse them
one way gives no sound...the other does.

Nothing can be damaged if you get it backwards unless they are active

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 04:37 PM
unsolder the 2 wires you soldered together and solder one each to where the other 2 wires go
If it doesn't work, reverse them
one way gives no sound...the other does.

Nothing can be damaged if you get it backwards unless they are active

the 2 i soldered together then got soldered to the pot somewhere. i think. so i need to take them off of the pot (i think it actually went to a tab) and then put them back on the pot separately? how will this be any different?

:badidea: :dunno:

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 04:37 PM
Nothing can be damaged if you get it backwards unless they are active

and it's all fully passive, so there's no worries there...

bassmanatlarge
03-16-2007, 04:47 PM
the 2 i soldered together then got soldered to the pot somewhere. i think. so i need to take them off of the pot (i think it actually went to a tab) and then put them back on the pot separately? how will this be any different?

:badidea: :dunno:if it fits with theory, the 2 soldered togehter should go nowhere else. the other 2 wires should go one to ground, one to the tab on the pot...

Now I've shared my complete lack of knowledge about series/parallel

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 04:51 PM
if it fits with theory, the 2 soldered togehter should go nowhere else. the other 2 wires should go one to ground, one to the tab on the pot...

Now I've shared my complete lack of knowledge about series/parallel

so if i unsolder the grouped pair, one goes to the tab, one goes to the ground? and if it doesn't work that way, i swap the 2 i just moved?

bassmanatlarge
03-16-2007, 05:08 PM
so if i unsolder the grouped pair, one goes to the tab, one goes to the ground? and if it doesn't work that way, i swap the 2 i just moved?

that's what I'd do...it's just a fucking bass guitar after all

MrJoshua
03-16-2007, 05:13 PM
The wires should be color-coded, probably black and white. One black and one white (from different pups) are soldered together right now. You want to separate those two wires, then solder them to where the other two wires are.

In other words, you want both pups to have their black wires terminated at the same spot, and both white wires at the same spot.

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 05:23 PM
The wires should be color-coded, probably black and white. One black and one white (from different pups) are soldered together right now. You want to separate those two wires, then solder them to where the other two wires are.

In other words, you want both pups to have their black wires terminated at the same spot, and both white wires at the same spot.

relative to their respective pots? i've got one p'up on one pot, the other on the other.

bpocall
03-16-2007, 06:07 PM
Hey Matt, you want to solder the red and black wires to hot, and the green, white, and shield wires to ground. That'll put your bridge pup in parallel.

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 06:31 PM
Hey Matt, you want to solder the red and black wires to hot, and the green, white, and shield wires to ground. That'll put your bridge pup in parallel.

hot = pot tab?

ground = sleeve on jack?

bpocall
03-16-2007, 06:36 PM
hot = pot tab?

Yup.

ground = sleeve on jack?

That or the back of the pot.

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 06:43 PM
Yup.



That or the back of the pot.

noice! now, so long as my pickups actually have wires in those colors, we should be groovin.


so, just hypothetically speaking, how would one go about wiring in a switch to be able to choose between series and parallel?

bpocall
03-16-2007, 06:50 PM
You're talking about the Bart pups, right? If so, you'll have those colrs. Here's the diagram for a series parallel switch:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v677/bpocall/Random%20Stuff/series_parallel.jpg

mlwarriner
03-16-2007, 09:38 PM
You're talking about the Bart pups, right? If so, you'll have those colrs. Here's the diagram for a series parallel switch:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v677/bpocall/Random%20Stuff/series_parallel.jpg

groovin. not sure if i want to mess with a switch or not, but it's a thought...


tanks!

bpocall
03-16-2007, 10:48 PM
The switch's aren't hard to wire at all. A push/pull will set you back about $10 if you decide to go for it.

beam
03-16-2007, 10:54 PM
The switch's aren't hard to wire at all. A push/pull will set you back about $10 if you decide to go for it.

This man knows what he's talking about :)

mlwarriner
03-17-2007, 11:27 AM
The switch's aren't hard to wire at all. A push/pull will set you back about $10 if you decide to go for it.

This man knows what he's talking about :)

not sure if i'd do a push/pull or just a mini toggle. or maybe i'll just hardwire the bridge pickup in parallel and control the overall bass tone with the individual volumes.

bpocall
03-17-2007, 01:04 PM
not sure if i'd do a push/pull or just a mini toggle. or maybe i'll just hardwire the bridge pickup in parallel and control the overall bass tone with the individual volumes.

You could just use the individual volumes, but just as a fair warning, pickup output for the parallel wired pup will be about half that of the series wired pickup.

bassmanatlarge
03-17-2007, 01:46 PM
<snip>.
would you like a job?

oldivor
03-17-2007, 01:50 PM
would you like a job?

If you're looking for tech support it's cheaper in India. :rofl:

mrcrow
03-17-2007, 02:59 PM
generally red is hot/yellow ground..white is hot/black ground
there are variations but i believe all red is hot and all white is hot
you may have soldered together a yellow and white..or so
that is normal for series
for parallel unsolder and treat the white as hot and the yellow as ground

bpocall
03-17-2007, 09:00 PM
would you like a job?

Sign me up! :thumbsup: